Level: Intermediate

Prominade, doe see doe, round and round we go.

• 644D Serger
• Serger needles size 14
• 4 spools of Janome 90 wt. serger thread (Red)
• 4 spools of Janome 90 wt. serger thread (blue)

• 1 yd Blue denim - main color
• 2/3 yd Red check cotton or contrasting color
• 1 Spool of red wooly nylon
• Rotary cutter and mat
• Quilting Ruler
• Fabric scraps for testing stitches
• Scissors
• Washable glue stick
• Floss threaders
• Seam Sealant
• 1 ¼ yds - generic cording or ¼” elastic (for inserting into strap)

Fabric Cutting Instructions
1. Using Pattern piece A, cut one from the red check fabric and one from the blue denim fabric.
2. Using Pattern piece B, cut one from the red check fabric and one from the blue denim fabric.
3. Cut one 3” x 45” strip of red check fabric for the ruffle.
4. Cut one 3” x 45” strip of red check fabric for the strap.

Instructions
Ruffle Strips:
1. Set up serger for a 3 thread Rolled Hem. Refer to your Instruction Book for specific settings.
2. Place Red Wooly Nylon in the upper looper. Place Red Serger thread in the lower looper and needle.
3. Adjust the right needle tension to 4, the upper looper to 2 - 3, and the lower looper to 7 - 9.
Set the Stitch Length between the 1 (one) and the “R”.
4. Set the Differential Feed dial at 1.0
5. Always test the stitch on a scrap of fabric.
6. Use 5/8” seam allowance.
7. Take the 3” x 44/45” strip of Red check fabric, right side up, stitch down one long side.
8. Cut strip in half to yield two strips 3” x 22” long.
9. Serge across all four short ends.
10. Dab seam sealant on rolled hem thread tails and set aside to dry. When dry trim thread tails.
11. Set aside.

Strap:
12. Take the remaining 3” x 45” strip of Red check fabric and with wrong sides together, fold in half lengthwise to equal 1 ½” x 44/45”.
13. Using a ¼” seam allowance, or slightly trimming the edge, serge down one of the long sides.
14. With the same side up (serging in the opposite direction) and having the previous rolled hem edge ride along the left hand side of the presser foot, serge down the other long side.
15. Insert cording or elastic to add body to the strap.
16. Once cord is inserted, trim cord so that approximately 1” of the end of the strap doesn’t have any cord. Note – This is done so that when you serge it into the side of the purse there will not be any additional bulk.
17. Set aside.

Gathering Ruffles:
18. Set up serger for a four thread overlock stitch placing the Red Janome 90 wt. serger thread in all four positions.
19. Adjust both needle thread tensions to 6-7, upper looper tension to 3, and lower looper to tension to 3.
20. Set stitch length at 41/2, set Differential Feed at 2.0.
21. Test stitch on 10” x 3” scrap of fabric to determine ratio. Note - if the end ruffle is 5” then the ratio is 50%.
22. Take the two strips of check fabric with the rolled hem edges on the three sides and gather down the un-sewn (raw edge) side. Note – use 5/8” seam allowance.
Note - Dab seam sealant on rolled hem thread tails and set aside to dry. When dry trim thread tails.

Assembly:
23. Set up the serger for a 4 thread overlock stitch placing the Blue Janome 90 wt. serger thread in all four positions.
24. Take the check fabric and the denim fabric of pattern piece “B” and place them right sides together.
25. With right sides together serge across the short straight edge.
26. Press seam as serged then turn right side out and place wrong sides together. Note – line up all raw edges, secure with washable glue stick.
27. On the checkered side, measure down 1” from the straight folded edge and place one end of the strap.

28. On the opposite side place the other strap. Secure with glue stick.
29. On the large checkered fabric (pattern piece “A”), starting about 1” in from the straight edge, smear glue stick and position ruffle in place. Note – make sure the short straight edges will not be caught in the seam. If you opt to use pins, be sure to remove them before they approach the cutting blade.

30. With right sides together, place the folded section (from steps 25 – 27) on top of the checkered piece “A”. The folded edge will goes towards the center.
31. The long loop of the strap should be hanging out of the bottom.
32. With right sides together, place the large section of denim (piece “A”) on top of the large checkered section (Piece “A”). Note – the folded section should be sandwiched in between.
33. To accommodate the thickness of the fabric, it is suggested that the stitch length be adjusted to 3 ½.
34. Using approximately a ¼” seam allowance serge the curved edge first that has the ruffle sandwiched in between. (Note: the other ruffle will be used later.)
35. Serge down both long sides. Do not serge across the bottom.
36. Press all seams as sewn and turn wrong side out so that the checkered fabric is facing out.
37. Insert the remaining ruffle between the two denim pieces at the bottom.
38. Serge across the open raw edge and turn right side out.