Category:   Skill Level:
Graceful Bloom Wallhanging pattern available
Graceful Bloom Wallhanging

Created by: Jane Spolar of Quilt Poetry

Be sure to give us feedback on this project below.


Level: Intermediate - Advanced
Time: 10 hours

Jane Spolar of Quilt Poetry™ created this gorgeous wallhanging - perfect for spring! It is quilted first using the AcuFil quilting feature, then appliquéd with decorative stitches second. It also uses some final embroidery embellishment. A fun project to play with many aspects of your Memory Craft 11000 Special Edition.

Janome Supplies Required 
Memory Craft 11000 Special Edition
AQ Hoop
Embroidery foot P
1/4 Seam foot O
Satin Stitch foot F
Even Feed Foot or an Even Feed Open Toe foot
Cloth Guide

Fabric and Notions Required
Background, Borders and Binding 1/2 yd background fabric (Jane used fabric from the Carolina collection by Windham Fabrics)
3/4 yd border fabric (Jane used fabric from the All That Jazz collection by Windham Fabrics)
1/4 yd binding fabic
1 yd backing fabric
Applique Large Flower:
1/4 yd main color
1/8 yd or large scraps of two colors for accents
Leaves and Stems:
1/4 yd of two greens
Circles:
Large scraps

1 yd or a 36” x 39” piece of very thin batting
3/4 yd Janome Appli-Fuse or Fusible Fleece
A small piece of fusible web (if using Appli-Fuse) or 1 yd of fusible paper-backed web if using fusible fleece
1/2 yd thin clear upholstery vinyl or tissue paper (for overlay)
Black fine or ultra fine point Sharpie pen
A variety of decorative threads
Fine thread for bobbin in color that matches the backing fabric
Janome Red Tip needle size 90/14
Temporary spray adhesive

Cutting Instructions
Background block:
-Cut the background fabric to measure 161/2" x 191/2".
Borders:
Note: The border strips are much wider than the finished borders to enable easy hooping.
-Cut three (3), 8" strips across the width of the fabric.
-From one strip, cut two (2), 161/2" long pieces.
-From each of the other two strips cut one (1) 341/2" long piece.
Backing:
Cut 36" x 39"

Sewing Instructions:
Note: Sew seams with a ¼" seam, using the 1/4 Inch Seam Foot O. I find it handy to use the cloth guide too. It just makes it easier to guide the fabric into the sewing area. If you haven’t used the cloth guide yet, give it a try. Personally, I love it! 1. Attach the 161/2" border strips to the top and bottom of the background block.
Press seams toward the border.
2. Attach the 341/2" border strips to the sides of quilt block . Press seams toward the border.

Quilting the quilt using AcuFil:
1. Set the machine for embroidery and select the quick design key.
2. Select the fourth menu and from there, select the stippling 20 menu.
3. Select AcuFil design 1.
4. Select the general arrangement key, (it looks like a grid), and enter dimensions to quilt, 26" wide by 29" long. Press the OK key.
(Please note, the quilting size is smaller than the entire quilt sandwich. The excess is there only to facilitate hooping. You will be quilting an area large enough to easily trim the quilt after all work has been finished.) 5. You will now see the hoop arrangement of 5 hoops across and 4 down, press OK.
6. The next screen will show you the quilt design at 7.23” vertically and 5.19" horizontally. At this point save the design. (This is important if you want to print a template and in case you need to stop quilting before all embroidery is complete.) Press OK.
7. Print a template, or note that the design stitches inside the area of the AcuFil Hoop template – one square from both the top and bottom and 1/2 square from the sides of the grid. You can view how the design will look in the template grid by selecting the edit key. However, once you’ve viewed the edit screen, you can’t easily get back to the embroidery screen. – Just close the edit screen when you’re done viewing, select the folder key and retrieve your saved design. You will automatically have to select the general arrangement key again, (your measurements will already be there), then hit OK to each screen until you’re back at the embroidery screen.


8. Mark the placement of the hoops on the quilt top by first marking a horizontal and vertical line through the center of the quilt. Mark the hoop placements next. Note that the hoops will line up above and below the center vertical line and right through the middle of the center horizontal line.
9. Layer the backing, batting, and quilt top. (I use a spray baste between the layers.)
10. Use a variegated thread on top of the machine that looks good with the background and border fabric. Use a fine bobbin thread that blends well with the backing fabric. (Don’t forget to change to the Embroidery foot P.)
11. Hoop and quilt the sections beginning with one of the center sections.

Appliqué Instructions: 

(You may either use thin fusible fleece behind your appliqué or Appli-Fuse. Directions will follow for each.) The pattern is numbered so the shapes with the smallest numbers are fused to the background first. For instance, shape 3 will be fused down prior to shape 10. There are also small arrows which indicate which shape lies underneath another. You must add an extension of about 1/8”" to the edge of the bottom shape where it will beoverlapped with the top shape. (The drawing shows dashed lines that indicate how to add an extension to a piece. Shapes 3, 8, and 9 are all overlapped by shape 11.)


Instructions Using Fusible Fleece:

1. Trace reversed shapes onto the paper side of fusible web. (Turn the pattern over and trace from the back side on top of a light box or other light source such as a window.) Remember to include overlap allowances where needed, (such as the stem which lies under the flower). Roughly cut around each piece.
2. Determine how big a piece of fabric you’ll need for each shape. Cut out a section of fusible fleece based on this size and fuse to the back side of the appliqué fabric.
3. Fuse the glue side of the fusible web to the fleece.
4. Cut the appliqué shape out on the line.
5. The only exception to this process is for piece F2 and piece F5. For these two shapes, fuse the glue side of the fusible web directly to the back side of the fabric. Cut the shape out on the line.
Instructions Using Appli-Fuse:
1. Trace reversed shapes onto the shiny paper side of the Appli-Fuse. (Turn the pattern over and trace from the back side on top of a light box or other light source such as a window.) Remember to include overlap allowances where needed, (such as the stem which lies under the flower). Roughly cut around each piece.
2. Fuse the adhesive side to the back side of the appliqué fabric. Cut out the shapes on the line.
3. The only exception to this process is for piece F2 and piece F5. For these two shapes, fuse the glue side of the fusible web directly to the back side of the fabric. Cut the shape out on the line.


Assembling the Appliqué on the background:
(This applies to both the fusible fleece appliqué and the Appli-Fuse appliqué.)
1. Trace the Graceful Bloom design onto the clear vinyl with the Sharpie pen.
2. Peel off the paper backing from the fusible web backed shapes or from the Appli-Fuse shapes.
3. I like to use a pressing sheet to fuse some things together first. For instance, the flower can be completely assembled on a pressing sheet – then fused to the quilt as one large unit. Lay the paper pattern underneath the pressing sheet so you know how to line up the shapes. You can fuse to the sheet, then let it cool and peel it off to fuse on the quilt.
4. Position shapes on the quilt one by one, using the overlay as a guide for placement.
5. Remove the overlay and fuse each shape down prior to moving to the next shape.


Stitching the Appliqué:
When using fusible fleece or Appli-Fuse behind the appliqué shapes, I like to use a stitch that entirely covers the edge of the shape. Note that I think it’s helpful to set the foot pressure dial on the top of the machine to 2 for easier movement when stitching the shapes on the quilt. I used the same bobbin thread that I used when doing the AcuFil quilting.


1. Stitch around each shape using decorative thread. Use either Satin Stitch Foot F or an optional Custom Crafted Zig Zag foot which gives great visibility for your decorative stitch placement. I find I can’t live without this foot.
Here are some of the stitches I used from the decorative stitch menus:
Shading stitch # 6. I set it at 5.0 width and .3 length and stitched along the outside of the long stem, then set it at 3.2 width and .3 length and stitched along the inside of the long stem.
Blanket stitch #15. I set it at 2.5 width and .9 length.
Patchwork stitch #37. I set it at 4.0 width and 1.8 length.
Appliqué stitch #18. I used the default settings.
Utility sewing Triple stretch stitch #5. I set the length at 2.2. I used this stitch to do the decorative stitching within the shapes, (gray lines on the pattern piece).
In one area I even stitched the patchwork stitch 37, and then went back and also used the appliqué stitch 18 in the same shape. This is a time to play and have fun! Experiment!

Embellishing the Quilt:
Note: I used some embroidery, some decorative stitching and some hot fix crystals to embellish the quilt. (The crystals are not added till the quilt is trimmed and bound.) 

1. Instead of using piping or a narrow inner border, I used decorative thread and decorative shading stitch #6 set at the default settings. I stitched all the way around the inner edge of the border, with the zigs pointing into the border and the needle falling just inside the edge of the block on the right drop of the needle. (See drawing.) At the corners, pivot on the right drop of the needle. This looks great and is a fun alternative to an inner border!


2. Embroidering the corner motifs.


-Set the machine for embroidery and use the quick design key. Select the second menu from there and then select the 2x2 menu 10. Select design 2.
-Select the edit button. Then select the AQ hoop, (this will be the easiest hoop to use on the completed quilt).
-Pivot the design 45 degrees to the left. Move the motif into the upper left quadrant so it falls about 1 grid square away from the center lines. (The diagram is not an accurate depiction of the embroidery, but gives you the idea of how to place the motif.)


-Hoop the upper left corner of the quilt, lining the center lines of the AcuFil hoop template on the seamline between the block and the border of the quilt. Stitch the motif using two colors of thread that accent your quilt.
-Repeat this sequence for each corner of the quilt, rotating and placing the motif as needed for each corner. (For example, for the lower left quilt corner… rotate the motif 45 degrees to the left 3 times, then place the motif 1 grid square away from the center lines in the lower left quadrant.)
3. Embroidering the circle motifs.


-Set the machine for embroidery and use the quick design key. Select the second menu from there and then select the 2x2 menu 12. Select design 28. (It looks like a button.)
-Select the edit button. Then select the AQ hoop, (this will be the easiest hoop to use on the completed quilt).
-The motif should show up in the center of the grid. Leave it in that position.
-Hoop the quilt with the center lines on the AcuFil hoop template directly over the area where you want to embroider a circle. These can be “eyeballed” in. There are dashed lines on the pattern which indicate approximate locations for embroidered circles.
-Embroider a light thread color for color number one.
-Use a darker shade of the same color for color number two and three. Stop here. Do NOT stitch color four.
-Repeat this sequence for five embroidered circles.

Finish the Quilt:
1. Press the quilt from the back. Trim the borders to 31/2".
2. Bind the quilt with single fold binding. (Three 13/4" strips will make a nice 3/8" binding.) I like to stitch on my binding with an Even Feed Foot. Did you know you there is an Open Toe Even Feed Foot available? I use this foot for many applications because it really allows me to see what I’m doing. This is a great foot to add to your collection.
Remember to try the cloth guide when sewing on your binding. Just one more helpful tool to make use of.
3. Apply hot fix crystals as desired! There are small dots on the pattern sheet to indicate possible places to use crystals. I also put a few going out from the corner embroidery in the border. (Sorry, I took photos before I put the crystals in place.)
4. Remember to label your quilt. Consider creating your label with the monogramming feature on your machine. Leave a space to write your name with a waterproof pen. I think the project looks more personal if you use your own signature. hot fix crystals to embellish the quilt. (The crystals are not added till the quilt is trimmed and bound.)

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