Level: Beginner
Time: 8 hours

Quilts are treasured heirlooms, not just for the intricacy or beauty of the final product, but also for the work and loving care that goes into their production. This super-easy quilt packs a huge amount of ‘heirloom-quality’ on a pretty stringent ‘skill’ budget. The idea of the quilt is to include blocks that feature family names. You might make yours for a baby’s christening, or for a recent grad on his way to college. An anniversary, the holidays – anything is fair game for this great project.

We made our quilt on the Memory Craft 11000 Special Edition, and we recommend getting together with a friend who has font stitches or embroidery on their sewing machine in order to stitch family names on the blocks.

If you don’t have access to fancy stitches, no problem – you could use a textile pen (make sure you choose one that is colorfast) and write the names throughout the quilt. Special fabric paper that can be put through a printer is also available – use a word processing program to type the names, then print them out.

You could also cut letters from fabric to appliqué the initials (or the whole names if you’re ambitious!) onto each block.

If you’d like to just make a quilt with a bunch of squares, that’s ok too; just skip the parts of the instructions that describe adding names to the blocks.

No matter how you accomplish it, this is an easy way to get into quilting, and you’ll create a family treasure at the same time!

Our instructions may seem long, but don't let that scare you. We've written the steps so someone who has never put rotary cutter to fabric can follow them easily.

Janome Supplies Required
Sewing machine – with font stitches or embroidery if possible
¼” Seam foot O (optional, but very helpful!)
Walking foot (optional)
Blue Tip 75/11 needle
Janome TearAway Stabilizer

Fabric and Notions Required
All purpose sewing thread in colors to match fabrics
Fabric marking pen (optional)
Rotary cutter, ruler and mat OR a pair of fabric scissors
Pins
Safety Pins for basting the quilt prior to quilting
1 ½ yards fabric A (this is the complementary fabric for blocks without names)
1 ½ yards fabric B (this fabric is for the blocks with names. It should be a solid or mottled fabric so that the names are visible. You may decide to use a variety of colors, as we did. If you choose to, just make sure you have 1 ½ yards total of fabric B.)
½ yard of fabric for binding (you can make this one of the colors used above, or something complimentary)
3 yards of fabric for the back of the quilt
Batting (twin size; or to fit the size of quilt)

Determining the quilt layout
1. First, you’ll need to make a list of names that you want to include on your quilt – this list is going to determine how many blocks (squares) you need. Our quilt contains 30 names. Since each ‘name’ block is bordered by a ‘non-name’ block, you need to double the name list to determine how many total blocks you need, so in our case we need at least 60 squares for our quilt.
2. Next, you need to consider the basic layout of your quilt. As stated above, we need at least 60 squares in our quilt – but to use 60 squares, we need to make a quilt that is 6 squares across and 10 down (or another multiple of 60). We decided to make a quilt that is 8 squares across and 8 squares down, so we’ll need a total of 64 squares to complete our quilt.
3. We made each of our squares 6”. This means that our final quilt measures 48” square. You may want to make a bigger or smaller sized quilt, or you may need to adjust the block size if you need to make more or less blocks. The fabric requirements we have listed above will make a 48” square quilt. Get more or less fabric according to your design. Remember, when buying fabric, it is better to over-estimate what you need. You can always make a matching pillow if you end up with some left over.

Cutting Instructions
If you’ve never quilted before, you may not know that there is an amazing tool for cutting fabric, especially for quilting, called a rotary cutter. A rotary cutter is used with a special cutting mat and a ruler, and it functions pretty much like a pizza cutter. It is easy to cut out squares for making a quilt with this tool, but scissors will do the job as well. We’ll list instructions here for using a rotary cutter.
1. First, you will need to iron all of your fabric. If you are using a rotary cutter, you will also need to fold the fabric in half so that you can cut along the width of the fabric. To do this, you will match up the selvedges of the fabric – the selvedge is the edge of the fabric that is finished; usually at least one of the selvedge edges contains writing that describes the fabric, such as the fabric manufacturer and the name of the fabric line. Identify the selvedges, and then place them together and fold along the center line.
2. Cut five 6 ½” strips from selvedge to selvedge from Fabric A. Open up each strip, then recut into 6 ½” squares to yield a total of 32 squares.
Note: If you’ve decided to make your blocks (squares) a different size than 6”, just remember to cut them out ½” larger than the size you want them to be when your quilt is sewn (quilters call this the ‘finished’ size). This extra ½” is called a seam allowance, and you factor it into your cutting so that you can account for the seam between each quilt block. Each seam will be ¼” (a ¼” seam on one side of the block, and a ¼” seam on the other side of the block adds up to ½”).
3. Cut six strips from Fabric A for the borders. Each strip will be 2 ½” wide, cut across the width of the fabric.
4. Cut six strips from Fabric B for the binding. Each strip will be 2 ½” wide, cut across the width of the fabric.
5. The size you cut the squares from Fabric B will vary, depending on the way you are stitching out the names on the blocks. If you are using a non-embroidery machine, you can cut these blocks (squares) out at 6 ½” x 6 ½” as above. If you are using an embroidery machine to create the names, you will need to cut the squares larger, so that the fabric squares will fit in the Embroidery hoop. The best way to determine how large you need the squares is to place the hoop on the fabric, and make each square about 2” larger than the hoop. Cut to this measurement. (We used the Memory Craft 11000 Special Edition, and cut our squares at about 8” to accommodate the ST Embroidery hoop.)
6. Based on the size you cut your blocks from Fabric B above, cut the tear away stabilizer to the same size, and cut enough pieces so that you have one for each square that you are going to embroider.

Embroidering the blocks
Using the Memory Craft 11000 Special Edition
1. At your machine, choose the Embroidery Mode.

2. Select the Monogramming tab.

3. Select the Font key.

On the font list page, select the font you would like to use. (Our sample uses Gothic.) Press OK.
4. Type in the name.

Use the font size and uppercase/lowercase keys as you see fit.

5. The name may have two parts, for instance Uncle Steve. If you would like these names to occupy separate lines, you will need to use the Edit screen. Type in the first name and press OK.
6. Press the Edit tab.

This will take you to the Edit Screen. Use the positioning arrows to move the letters to the center of the Edit screen..
7. To write the second word, press the Font tab. Type in the second name and press OK.
8. Use the positioning arrows to move the second word to he desired position. To go back and forth between the words touch them with your stylus. A green square will be present around the word that is selected.
9. When you are please with the layout, press OK. This will take you to the Ready to Sew screen.
10. Place a square of fabric with stabilizer in the hoop. Attach the hoop to the machine.
11. Press the Start/Stop button to begin stitching.
12. Repeat these steps for each name.
13. When names are complete, remove the tear away stabilizer.

Using the Memory Craft 5200
1. Press the Lettering Mode button to access the fonts.
2. Select the font that you prefer by pressing the Lettering Mode button to scroll through the options.
3. Using the numbers and your stitch selection chart, enter the letters of the desired name.
4. If the name is long, you may use the Edit button to move the cursor across the name to the left to edit, and the Help button to scroll to the right.
5. Place a piece of tear away stabilizer under the square to be embroidered.
6. Place the square under the needle in the location where you would like the name to be sewn. You may find it helpful to make placement marks and a straight line with a fabric marking pen, so that you have a guide for stitching out the names.
7. Repeat to create all of the name blocks.
8. When names are complete, remove the tear away stabilizer.

Assembling the Quilt
1. First, you may want to lay out all of the blocks so that you can strategically place them. Our quilt is for a baptism, and so we want the name of the baby in the center and all of the names around it. You may be making yours as a family tree, so you’ll want to group certain names together. At any rate, if you have enough space, lay out the entire quilt as you want it sewn together. If you don’t have enough room, you may lay out each row. When laying out the quilt, think about how you want the blocks to work together. Our instructions call for a named block placed next to a solid block – you may want to modify this.
2. Once the quilt arrangement has been determined, you will sew the blocks (squares) together to create a row. When all rows are sewn, you will sew the rows together to create the center of the quilt top.
3. Starting with the top row, row 1, place two blocks (squares) right sides together and pin.
4. Take your first blocks to the sewing machine. You will stitch them together using a ¼” seam allowance. If you have a ¼” seam foot, put it on your machine now. If you don’t have a ¼” seam foot, you may find it easiest to place a guide on your machine so that you can create a ¼” seam allowance. To do this, put the needle in the ‘down’ position, either by using the needle up/down button, or by turning the handwheel. Using a ruler or tape measure, measure ¼” from the needle, and place a mark on the needle plate. You can then use a marker to draw a line along the bed of the sewing machine designating the ¼” seam allowance, or you may use a piece of tape to mark the line. Once you have made the line, test it. Take a piece of scrap fabric, and sew, lining the edge of the fabric with the line you have drawn on your sewing machine bed. After sewing, take the fabric away from the machine and measure the width of your stitching. It should be ¼” from the edge of the fabric to the stitching line. If it isn’t, then adjust the drawn line or tape on the machine bed.
5. Once you have determined the ¼” seam allowance, begin stitching the quilt blocks together. After you have sewn two together, you will need to press the seam. You will want to be consistent in pressing your seams throughout the quiltmaking. We recommend pressing each seam toward the named block. If you have chosen to make your quilt without alternating between a named and an unnamed block, then pick a direction in which to press the seams, and do so consistently.
6. Continue sewing adding blocks to the previously sewn blocks, until you have row #1 sewn together.
7. Repeat, sewing row #2. This time press the seams in the opposite direction as row #1. This will make matching the seams easier when sewing the rows together.
8. Continue sewing the blocks (squares) into rows until all rows are sewn..
Note: It is helpful to place the rows back in their original placement after sewing so that you do not get the rows mixed up.
9. After all rows are sewn, sew the rows together, matching the seams.
10. Now you have completed the quilt center. Your next step is to add the borders. Stitch two of the border strips right sides together along the short (2 ½”) edge. Repeat to create another long border strip.
11. Stitch these strips to the top and bottom of the quilt center. Press the seams away from the quilt center. After they are sewn, trim them so that they are even with the quilt center.
12. Sew the trimmed pieces along the short ends of the remaining two border strips.
13. Stitch these strips to the remaining sides of the quilt center. Press the seams away from the quilt center. Trim the excess fabric.
14. Your quilt top is now ready for quilting.

Quilting
It’s funny, but putting the blocks of the quilt together is called “piecing”, and the actual quilting happens after that part is over. Quilting refers to sandwiching the quilt top, the batting and the quilt backing together and sewing. You’re going to do this with a technique called “stitch in the ditch.” You can use a variety of other techniques, from something as simple as ‘tying’ the quilt – using yarn or embroidery floss to join the three layers together - to very intricate quilting designs. If you’re lucky enough to be able to use a Memory Craft 11000 Special Edition, check out the built-in quilting designs – it makes quilting your project amazingly easy.
1. First you need to assemble the back of the quilt. You have 3 yards of fabric, and your quilt top should measure about 52 ½” x 52 ½” – which is just a bit less than 1 ½ yards. So the easiest way to create the back is to cut the 3 yards into two 1 ½ yard pieces, and sew the selvage edges together. The selvage edge will not shrink if you quilt is ever washed. To prevent pucking, click the selvage edge every couple of inches after sewing. Press the seam to one side.
2. Next, layer the three pieces of the quilt components. Place the backing fabric with the right side down on a large, flat surface. To keep the backing from slipping, tape down to the surface using masking tape. Place the batting on top of the backing fabric. Place the quilt top, right side up, on top of the batting.
3. Next you need to secure (baste) the three layers together so that you can “quilt” without worrying about the layers shifting as you quilt. You can use special safety pins for basting, or traditional safety pins. Start in the center of the quilt, place a pin every 3-4” to hold the layers together. Smooth the layers as you work to make sure there are no wrinkles.
4. Once you have basted the quilt, you are ready to move to your sewing machine. Working with an entire quilt is a bit more cumbersome than sewing blocks together. You will want to place your machine on a large surface that can hold the portions of the quilt that you aren’t actively working on.
5. “Stitching in the ditch” refers to stitching along the seam – the idea is to get all of the stitches in the ‘ditch’ of the seam – or in the groove that is produced when the two pieces of fabric are joined together. Just like with the pins, it’s best to start in the center of your quilt and work outward. This way you can compensate if your basting pins are off somewhat, and you can evenly distribute any excess bulk.
6. To sew the “stitch in the ditch”, use a Walking foot, also referred to as an Even Feed foot. This foot works with the feed dogs that are underneath the fabric to make sure that the fabric (or quilt sandwich) is fed evenly from the top and the bottom. This kind of foot is especially helpful in a project like this, because if the top fabric moved differently from the bottom fabric, you would have little sewn-in wrinkles all over your quilt. Now, if you don’t have a Walking foot you should be fine – you just need to sew slowly to make sure everything is feeding evenly, and you need to pay attention as you’re sewing that the bottom fabric is being fed evenly.
7. If you have a Walking foot, you will want to attach it to your machine now. A lot of Janome feet are interchangeable by machine, so if one didn’t come with yours, the chances are pretty good that you can ask another Janome owner for one and it will work with your machine. Attaching it to the machine is a little tricky if you’ve never done so before. First, you will need to remove the foot holder and the foot that is on your machine. To do this, find the short little screwdriver that came with your machine. Unscrew the large screw to the left of the needle. This will allow the foot holder to come off. You’re going to put the ankle or foot holder section of the Walking foot on the exposed bar. Next, you see the long arm on the foot, the one that sticks out and makes it resemble something from Star Wars? That needs to extend on top of the needle bar. Attach it so that it resembles the photo below: INSERT SIDE VIEW OF WALKING FOOT ON MACHINE
8. Using thread to match the top of the quilt in the needle and one to match the bottom of the quilt in the bobbin, stitch across the seams of the quilt. Stitch in each of the seams, so work outward from the center going in one direction, and then do the same going in another. Remove the safety pins as you come to them. Once an area is sewn, the safety pins are no longer necessary.
9. You can stitch across the borders to match the quilting through the rest of the quilt, and or you can design a special quilting pattern in this area. If you want to try designing your own pattern in the border, you can sketch a design – be it straight lines in a pattern or an intricate series of flowers – using a fabric marking pen.
10. Remove any remaining safety pins from the quilt. Trim excess backing fabric and batting along the edges of the quilt.

Attaching the binding
1. Once you have finished quilting, you’re ready to put on the binding. This is the last step!
2. Locate the six 2 ½” strips that you cut for the binding during the cutting instructions above.
3. Stitch these strips together along the short sides so that you create one very long strip of fabric.
4. Fold the strip in half, wrong sides together, along the 2 ½” edge (so that it now measures 1 ¼” across) and press. Press along the entire length of the binding strip.
5. Remove the Walking foot and reattach the foot holder ¼” Seam foot.
6. Next you will attach the binding to the quilt. You can pin the binding to the quilt as you work, if this makes you more comfortable. It is sometimes easier to sew slowly and line up the binding with the edge of the quilt as you sew along without using pins. Try both, and see what makes you the most comfortable.
7. Start attaching the binding on the bottom edge of the quilt – not at a corner. This makes the beginning and end of the binding less conspicuous. Align the raw edge of the binding with the raw edge of the quilt, working on the top side of the quilt. Leave about 4” of the binding free (unsewn) and start sewing the binding to the quilt using a ¼” seam allowance.
8. Sew the binding stopping ¼” from the first corner. Clip the treads, and remove the quilt from under the presser foot.
9. Fold the binding strip up (away from the quilt) creating a 45 degree angle.
10. Next fold the binding strip back down upon itself, placing the horizontal fold of the fabric with the top edge of the quilt. Start sewing again at the upper edge.
11. Continue sewing down the next side of the quilt until you reach the next corner. Repeat steps 8 and 9.
12. Continue sewing, stopping at each corner and repeating steps 8 and 9.
13. Sew the binding on the final edge of the quilt to within 5” of your starting point.
14. Trim one end of the binding to a 2” tail. Fold the ends of this tail in ½”, so that you hide the raw edge of the fabric tail.
15. Slide the end of the other fabric tail into the hemmed tail. Trim if necessary.
16. Sew the remaining portion of the binding down.
17. Turn the quilt over and fold the binding over to the back side of the quilt. Working around the sides of the quilt and handstitch the binding in place. Note: You can also use your machine to stitch the binding in place. If you do this, you will want to be very careful to make sure that the stitches fall very close to the edge of the binding on the front of the quilt so that they aren’t visible. Also be sure to place thread that matches the fabric on the front of the quilt in the bobbin.
18. A folded miter will automatically form at the corners of the quilt.
19. Many quilters sign and date their work. You may want to do this to commemorate the quit. You can do this with a fabric pen, placing your name and date on the back of the quilt, or you may choose to embroidery the information onto a piece of fabric and then appliqué it to the back.