Level: Intermediate

Build a whole wardrobe for your child or grandchild. Start with a classic car coat in denim, and add flower shaped toggle buttons, so easy for little fingers to button and unbutton. Repeat the simple flower design on a matching jumper, or vest and skirt set. Choose easy care fabrics and simple patterns, repeating the colors from the jacket and lining, so that all the pieces mix and match, and you have the perfect combination!

See Janome Digest Issue #15 for instructions to create the toggle button embellishment.

For Embroidery:

• Memory Craft 11000, 10001, 10000, 9700, 9500, 9000, 5700, or 5000. The 350E or 300E may also be used, along with any Janome sewing machine.
• Customizer 11000, Customizer 10000 Plus or Customizer 10000
• Customizer 2000 (MC9000, 5700, or 5000 only)
• USB or RS232C cable, USB Memory Device or ATA PC Card
• Embroidery Hoop
• Clothsetter Extension Table, Clothsetter 10000, or Clothsetter II
• Embroidery foot P
• Zig-Zag foot A
• Janome Embroidery thread #205 (Dark Brown), #232(Navy), #244 (Cardinal Red), #226 (Green)
• Janome Bobbin thread
• Blue Tip needle 75/11

For Appliquè:

• Any Janome machine
• Satin Stitch foot F
• Zig-Zag foot A
• Janome Embroidery thread #213(Beige), #205 (Dark Brown), #232(Navy), #244 (Cardinal Red), #226 (Green)
• Janome Bobbin thread
• Blue Tip needle 75/11

Fabric and Notions Required:

1. McCall's pattern #3358 (jumper & skirt)
2. McCall's patter #3342 (vest)
3. Simplicity 9303 (jacket) (This is a discontinued pattern. Substitute a similar pattern, such as Burda 2646, or Butterick 5714)
4. Fabric according to pattern plus an additional 1/2 yd. for the jumper
5. Additional notions according to pattern
6. For Embroidery:
   • -Tear away stabilizer
7. For Appliquè:
   • Assorted scraps of fabric in cardinal red, beige, and green
   • Iron-on interfacing
   • Paper-backed Fusible Web
   • Fabric marking pen

Embroidery Embellishment:

1. Save the *.bmp file above: Click your right mouse button on the above link and choose "Save Target As" from the menu. Save the file as "classic-kids" in your favorite folder.
2. Open Customizer 11000 or Customizer EasyImport.
3. For Customizer 11000, click on the 'New" icon on the toolbar. Choose Square Hoop. For Customizer Plus, click on the arrow to the right of the 'New" icon on the toolbar. Choose Large Hoop.
4. Click File. For Customizer 11000, Click Import Design, Image File. For Customizer Plus, Import Clipart. For Customizer 2000, click Import, then click Bitmap File. Open "classic-kids".
5. Click Edit. Click Outline.
   Hint: It may be necessary to clean up the image using the Pencil and Eraser functions. Use the Zoom icon to enlarge areas that are difficult to see.
6. Click the Line icon. Click the variable width zig-zag stitch. Change the width to 1.5mm. Change the Line color to Dark Brown (205). Click OK.
7. Click on the spirals in the center of each flower. Click Register.
8. Click the Line icon. Click the Straight stitch. The length remains at 1.5mm. The Line color remains Dark Brown (205). Click OK.
9. Click on the veins of each leaf. Click Register.
10. Click the Eraser icon. Remove the spirals from the center of each flower, and the veins from each leaf.
    Hint: The Eraser size can be altered between Small, Medium and Large. Click Edit, click Eraser Options, select eraser size from menu.
11. Click the Line icon. Click the variable width zig-zag stitch. Change the width to 1.5mm. Change the Line color to Navy Blue (232). Click OK.
12. Click on the curlicues. Click Register.
13. Click the Fill icon. Click Vertical Fill. Change the Fill Color to Navy Blue (232). Click OK.
14. Click the middle flower. Click Register.
15. Click the Line icon. Click the variable width zig-zag stitch. Change the width to 2.5mm. The Line color remains Navy Blue (232). Click OK.
16. Click on the flower outline. Click Register.
17. Click the Fill icon. Click Diagonal Fill. Change the Fill Color to Cardinal Red (244). Click OK.
18. Click on the remaining flowers. Click Register.
19. Click the Line icon. Click the variable width zig-zag stitch. Change the width to 2.5mm. Change the Fill Color to Cardinal Red (244). Click OK.
20. Click on the matching flower outlines. Click Register.
21. Click Fill. Click Horizontal Fill. Change the Fill Color to Green (226). Click OK.
22. Click on each leaf. Click Register.
23. Click the Line icon. Click the variable width zig-zag stitch. Change the width to 2.5mm. Change the Fill Color to Green (226). Click OK.
24. Click on each leaf outline. Click Register.
25. Click Create on the Menu toolbar. Click Edit Parts.
    For Customizer 11000 or Customizer Plus:
    • Click (1), Dk brn Z1.5.
    • Click Move. Click on (9).
    • Click (1), Dk brn S1.5.
    • Click Move. Click on (9).
    • Click (9), Green Z2.5.
    • Click Move. Click on (7).
    • Click Make.
    • In the next Prompt Box, click Make.
    •   For Customizer 2000:
    • At the top of the prompt box, click Change Order.
    • Click on (3), (4), (5), (6), (7), (8) and (9).
    • Click Make.
    • In the next Prompt Box, click Make.
    
    Note: When we started our design, we registered the dark brown flower centers and leaf veins first, and then erased them from our outline. This allows us to fill in the flowers and leaves cleanly, with no gaps in the fill area. By changing the order of the colors, the dark brown stitches out last, completing the flowers and leaves.
26. Click File. Save As file name "".
27. Send the embroidery design to your embroidery machine: For Customizer 2000, write to a blank memory card. For Customizer 11000 or Customizer Plus, write to an ATA PC card or USB Memory Device, or send via USB or RS232C direct PC Link.
28. When ready for embroidery, use the Clothsetter for positioning and properly stabilize fabric.

Appliquè Embellishment:

1. Save the *.bmp file above. File name "". Print drawing.
2. Apply iron-on interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric scraps.
3. Trace the flowers and leaves onto the paper side of the fusible web. The design, as shown, has three flowers and three leaves.
4. Separate each flower and leaf, but don't trim along the outline yet.
5. Iron the fusible web pieces to the appropriate color fabric.
6. Trim along the outline.
7. Remove the paper backing, and position the pieces in a pleasing arrangement on the garment, as desired.
8. Following the directions with the fusible web, iron the pieces in place.
9. With the fabric marking pen, draw curlicues and veins on each leaf.
10. Thread sewing machine with #213 (Beige) embroidery thread in the needle, and bobbin thread in the bottom.
11. Attach the Satin Stitch foot F.
12. Select the zig-zag stitch. Adjust the length to 0.5mm and width to 2.0mm.
13. Sew along the curlicues.
14. Change the embroidery thread to match the fabric scraps for the flowers.
15. Adjust the zig-zag to a stitch length of 1.0mm and a width of 2.0mm. Stitch around each flower, pivoting between the petals.
16. Stitch around each flower a second time, adjusting the stitch length to 0.5mm and the width to 2.5mm, again, pivoting between the petals.
17. Change the embroidery thread to #225 (Green) to match the leaves. Stitch around each leaf twice, using the same settings used for the flowers.
18. Change the embroidery thread to #205 (Dark Brown).
19. Select the Straight stitch. Adjust the length to 1.5mm. Stitch along the veins of the leaves.
20. Drop the feed dogs on the sewing machine for free motion embroidery. Remove foot from machine.
21. Select a zig-zag stitch, and adjust the width to 2.0mm.
22. Starting at the center of each flower, stitch 3 or 4 stitches in place to secure the threads.
23. Gradually increase the speed of the sewing machine to a medium speed, at the same time moving the fabric in a circular motion, creating a spiral. You do not need to turn the fabric as you are doing this, just make a circular motion.
24. Stitch a spiral in the center of each flower.
    Hint: Practice this technique on scraps of fabric before doing the flower centers.

Construction:
The car coat, vest and skirt are sewn according to the pattern instructions, with embroidery or applique as embellishment. The jumper was modified to include a pleated skirt and pocket flaps:

1. Prepare the jumper pattern pieces, McCall's #3358, by trimming 10" from the bottom of the jumper front and the jumper back.
2. From the fabric, cut two 12" pieces the full width of the fabric. Sewn the two pieces together end to end.
3. Pleat the length of fabric with 1" deep pleats with 1 1/2" spacing.
4. Baste across the top of the pleats.
5. Cut out the jumper, using the adjusted jumper front and jumper back.
6. From scraps, cut out 4 pocket flaps, using the pocket flap pattern piece from the vest pattern, McCall's #3342.
7. On the jumper front, position the embroidery design.
8. Set up the Memory Craft for Professional Style embroidery. Attach the Embroidery foot P.
9. Thread the machine with embroidery thread in the top, and bobbin thread in the bottom.
10. Hoop and embroider the jumper front, using stabilizer, and changing thread as needed.
11. Remove the jumper front from the hoop, and remove excess stabilizer. Press the embroidery from the wrong side.
12. Sew the jumper according to the pattern instructions, but do not hem.
13. Measure the bottom edge of the jumper.
14. Mark this measurement on the pleated length of fabric, starting 2" from one end, and placing a pin, and placing a pin at the end of the measurement.
15. Overlap the ends to make a circle, matching the pins. Adjust the overlap so that the pleats match, and trim the fabric so that the seam will be hidden in the pleats.
16. Sew the seam to create the pleated skirt.
17. With wrong sides together, stitch the pocket flaps, leaving the straight edge open.
18. Turn the pocket flaps to the right side and press.
19. Topstitch 1/4" from the edge.
20. Position the pocket flaps at the lower edge of the jumper, centered between the side seam and the center front. Baste in place.
21. Pin and sew the pleated skirt to the lower edge of the jumper.
22. Adjust the jumper length and hem.