Category: Technique:

Creating Hems in Knits with a Regular Sewing Machine

For a professional finish, the serger is the best machine to use for creating hems in knits and other fabrics. There are ways around using a serger, however, if you have only a regular sewing machine. Hemming knit fabrics with a conventional sewing machine is definitely easier if a twin needle is used for this application.

  

Instructions:
1. Turn up the hem the desired measurement (i.e. 1”) and press. Secure the pressed fold with straight pins.
2. Next choose a twin needle no larger than the needle plate will allow. One of the most commonly used twin needles for sewing knits is a Schmetz size 4.0/100.
3. Wind a bobbin using wooly nylon. Do not use tension when winding the bobbin. It is suggested that a thread stand be used for best results. In addition, the Wooly Nylon will need to be guided with your hand for even winding and preventing any pull or tension on the thread.
4. Seat the bobbin in the bobbin case as usual.
5. Thread the twin needles with the appropriate matching color traditional sewing thread and turn off or do not use the “Machine Thread Cutter”. Note – Wooly Nylon is not required in the twin needles - only the bobbin.
6. Finally, adjust the stitch length to 3.0 or higher and attach the Accufeed foot or Even Feed foot. Adjusting the stitch length to 3.0 or higher will allow the stitches to form without stretching the fabric. Sewing will be done on the RIGHT side of the fabric so it is necessary to use the seam guide on the needle plate for accuracy.

Special note – using Wooly Nylon in the bobbin allows the stitch to stretch without breaking when putting on or taking off the garment.