Topic:

Dear Jan,
When I understitch my facings with a straight stitch, I often get a ridge around the inside edge that does not lay flat. Should I change the length of my stitch? -Anonymous

Dear Anonymous,
Under stitching helps keep the facing on the inside of your garment and provides a clean edge on the outside. Depending on the weight of the fabric, a lining fabric could be used for your facing instead of your fashion fabric. It is also very important to grade your seams before turning the facings. Instead of the straight stitch, try using the multiple zigzag stitch available on many Janome machines. Adjust the width to 3.0. This will allow for the stretch in curved areas. Also, the width of the zigzag will even-out the fabric as you sew, eliminating the ridge you can sometimes get when the straight stitch becomes buried in the fabric layers.