Dear Jan,

I have just hemmed some tees that had to be cut off. Problem is why can I not get a smooth stitch with the double needle like a purchased garment. Mine does not lay smooth between stitches and the bobbin is not uniform. The purchased hem looks like a serged edge and mine looked like a pulled uneven zigzag with the top not smooth. I used a 100 double needle, which was the widest distance between the needles, but not as wide as the purchased tee. Please advise as I have some to cut off and rehem. Do the purchased ones use a serger and then hem?


Dear Treba,

Yes, hems on a purchased t-shirt are sewn with a serger that has Differential Feed which helps control the stretch of the fabric. Most sewing machines do not have this feature. If you are sewing the hem on a sewing machine, place a strip of light weight stabilizer between the fabric and the feed dogs. Do not stretch the fabric as you sew. Depending on the weight of the t-shirt knit, you may need to use 2 layers of light weight stabilizer. You could also use a couple of layers of water soluble stabilizer. The stabilizer prevents the feed dogs from grabbing the knit, stretching it as you sew.