Pinzineedlz
Posts: 2
Joined: 02/03/2011
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I bought 100% polyester fabric to make drapes, and I am wondering what kind of lining and interlining to buy. The fabric is very thin and somewhat "crispy" so maybe one could call it faux-silk. The drapes are not for a bedroom so I don't necessarily need blackout lining, but maybe thicker lining provides better body in the panels? They will be flat panels, by the way, not pleated. So here are my questions:
Should I get some 70% polyester/ 30% cotton blend, or 100% cotton, or the thick blackout lining?
Also, I have never used interlining before, but keep reading online that it is good to use for thin fabrics like silk, so what kind of interlining should I get; bump or something thinner?
Is it correct that the interlining is first attached to the face fabric, then the lining is sewn on last? Why does it matter?
If I want the drapes to puddle, how many inches should I add to the length; not counting the hem? (The 3 windows are 90" tall & 31" wide, just to establish the scale) I was thinking maybe 10"?
I'm guessing one doesn't use weights in the hem if the drapes puddle?
How will the linings affect the puddling? Does the puddling affect which type of linings I should buy?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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ibdeb
Posts: 20
Joined: 08/16/2010
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Dear Pinzineedlz,
Drapery lining can be a cotton poly blend or 100% cotton too.
Interlining for silk can be organza or bump/ flannelette fabric, however, 100% polyester does not need to be treated as if it is silk only because it looks like silk. Organza is expensive and 100% cotton will shrink.
My suggestion is to work with the fabric content that you have and not what it mimics, meaning select a fabric for the lining that is a closer match to your drapery fabric.
Choosing a 100% cotton to pair with 100% poly drapery fabric may give you unsatisfactory results in time, as the lining could shrink when cleaned and eventually distort the hang of your finished drapes, so try to use poly blend linings and interlinings.
The rule I've used for puddling is: add 1-3 in. finished length for a small puddle, 3-6 in for medium, and 6-10in for opulent puddle. For a large puddle, you may consider sewing a casing in the hem and add a drawstring that tucks under the puddle out of the way. Tack the drawstring in place at each end to secure the puddle shape.
The more layers you have the thicker the finished drape will be. Almost every good drape has at least a good quality lining. How and what to choose would be based on factors such as room light or darkness preference and sunlight damage. The very least you would use is the best quality lining to enhance the hang of the drapery fabric and protect it.
Your layering sequence would be drapery, interlining-if you choose that, and then lining.
Drapery fabric right side faces room, of course, then all other layers right sides face the window. I've made drapes that have lining encased in all hems and drapes where lining is only encased at the top.
The sequence of the layers matter because interlining is more of a utility fabric, less pretty, sometimes fuzzy texture, and better when covered up. It also can be an 'insulating' fabric. The visible layers of your panel should be the focus fabric on the front and the right side of the lining on the back. You could use a chain weight in the hem of the drapes to help keep the puddles in place.
I've used heavy black out successfully on faux silk panels by sewing the blackout under the top and side hems; leaving the bottom hem of the black out about two inches shorter than the bottom of the panel.
Hope this helps.
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Jefferson City, Missouri, USA. Janome MC11K SE, Janome 7700QCP, Bernina 900, 1260, 830E, Bernina 1150MDA serger, Singer 66 Red Eye Treadle, 15-91, 221k, 301a, Pfaff 7570, and Viking 1+.
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02/03/2011 09:45 AM
