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Topic Title: Lower looper constantly unthreaded!
Topic Summary: 7034D problem
Created On: 04/12/2013 11:02 AM
Linear : Threading : Single : Branch
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 04/12/2013 11:02 AM
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niftythrifty

Posts: 2
Joined: 04/11/2013

I have a Magnolia 7034D serger, and I have been using it for a few years. There has been a recurring malfunction since day one: The last "eye" in the lower looper thread path pulls out/comes unthreaded all the time. It seems pretty random. I rethread, from right to left according to the manual, using Maxi-lock thread. I have had a complete tune-up (all tensions reset, etc), changed the needles, tried different fabrics...all to no avail. It just. keeps. coming. unthreaded. It ran nicely after the tune-up for a little while (a few thread changes), and started again. I am a serger novice, so user error is a definite possibility...I just wish I knew what it was!

Could the diagrams of threading in the manual possibly be incorrect? Because I've followed it a million times.

*the dealer where I purchased the machine is a million miles away, and not terribly helpful anyway, so that route isn't a good option.
 04/12/2013 12:01 PM
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devilcat

Posts: 2228
Joined: 10/23/2007

When you say you re-thread according to the diagrams, do you just re-thread the problem area? The manuals do not emphasize this, but you must un-thread everything - the loopers and needles and then re-thread starting with the loopers and then the needles. If you are already doing this, I am sure that one of the members who is more experienced with sergers will stip with a suggestion. Be sure to let us know what happens.

Jacquie

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Ladysmith BC,Janome 12000, Bernina Record, Bernina 1150MDA serger, bit of a Luddite, garments not crafts
 04/12/2013 12:15 PM
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jsm1144

Posts: 723
Joined: 10/27/2010

Devil cat is right-to expand, if you break a looper, the needle threads must be out of the throat plate (you can pull them out and not even actually unthread the needles but they must be clear). This is because if you take a single stitch those needle threads wrap around the looper and if the thread comes out of the eye (I actually suspect that it's not coming unthreaded but is breaking because it's trapped)and you rethread it-even if you totally unthread the looper but leave the needle threads in the looper area. You'll never get more than a stitch or two before it gets trapped.
 04/12/2013 04:14 PM
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niftythrifty

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Joined: 04/11/2013

Thanks for your replies. First I usually try rethreading from the tension discs on (not rethreading absolutely everything). I do pull the needle threads out of the throat plate, rethread the loopers, and pull all the threads straight back. Sometimes that works, sometimes not in which case I rethread the whole blasted thing, start to finish. I would be surprised if the looper thread is breaking, because there is never a sense of pulling/tugging. I will pay closer attention next time and let you know.
 04/13/2013 04:44 PM
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digimad

Posts: 4577
Joined: 08/30/2007

One of the things you must watch out for is the two looper threads don't cross each other. That will snap the lower looper thread as you start serging. This is the link to Janomes serger basics tutorial serger basics link take a close look at second graphic, it shows the 2 loopers, the lower looper thread must NEVER lay across the top of the upper looper as you thread it up. The reason you unthread the needles is so you can turn the wheel and open a gap between the 2 looper eyes. You thread the Lower looper first, pull the thread out and lay on the serger back plate. Then thread the upper looper, it's easier than the lower looper to thread. Pull that thread through and up and lay on the serger back plate. Then thread up the right needle pull it under the foot to the back, and finally the left needle/ take that thread to the left when you've threaded the needle, take it under the foot take all 4 threads and gather them so when the foot is lowered they all sit under the back of the foot, then chain off a couple of inches. As long as you keep the initial lower looper thread UNDER the upper looper shaft, it wont snap.

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digimad
 04/23/2013 09:48 AM
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blueartisan

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Joined: 04/08/2013

digimad is right, the machine needles should not stay static while re-threading, that is you must move them into the correct position for each thread to be guided through correctly. I've had my compulock 2 for about ten years and I very rarely actually have to re-thread, the machine is literally falling apart from heavy use (vibrations ruin the screws eventually) and i have to get it repaired soon (if it can) but it still stitches beautifully because I always have it threaded correctly. I also advise that when re-threading move all your tensions to zero, that will ensure the thread does snap into the tension plate. There are many steps along the way as to where threading is done incorrectly (and where you can't see it) and it may even be a case of your lower looper being threaded correctly but your upper isn't. In my experience it's always the lower that will snap or un-thread if threading isn't done correctly on any of the threads. I also know start totally from scratch if the lower goes, the time saved from leaving other threads partially threaded isn't worth it when the damn thing won't sew properly! Also please tell me when you change threads you're doing the tie on and pull through? If you're threaded correctly then you'll never need to actually re-thread again! Oh and also check your needles, they go blunt too and skipped stitches can cause a breakage as well! good luck!

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MC 10001
 06/15/2014 03:18 PM
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rcindallas

Posts: 5
Joined: 06/15/2014

thanks above for whoever provided the links. I have a 634d with the same issue. I have had it for 15 hears and dread having to thread it. the book is not really helpful. do you have a better link for threading the janome sergers? that one did what clear it up to me. what is the exact order for threading all 4 threads ? what do you do *between* threading the lower and upper loopers? (or is it the other way around?) AFter consulting the book i usually resort to trial and error until something randomly works. P.S. i have a neighbor with the same machine .. When the tie-on method does not work she take it back to the shop for rethreading.
 06/15/2014 04:12 PM
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rcindallas

Posts: 5
Joined: 06/15/2014

OK; after re-reading the instructions, going to several other posts, and checking the site I am buying a new serger of a different brand. This one has unthreaded itself and chewed up my fabric for the last time; 15 years is too long.
 06/15/2014 10:34 PM
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CherylAnn

Posts: 3536
Joined: 05/27/2007

When I bought a new serger about 10 years ago, that dealer made me thread and re-thread that machine until I thought I'd go blind. Anyway her rule was:
1. thread upper looper,
2. thread lower looper,
3. thread right needle,
4. thread left needle

On my machine there is a spool spindle in the middle of my 4 threads so her rule was - thread from the inside to the outside always.

It works every time for me, but if I do anything that isn't the above order thinking I'm going to save time - I'm jinxed and I waste more time than I care to admit.

Cheryl

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Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada
Janome 15000, 12000, 4120, 760, 1200D Serger, Huskylock 926, Cover Pro 1000 & a few older sewing machines; my favourite computer games of DigitizerMBX v.4.5 with Cutwork, Floriani Total Control, & EQ7

Edited: 06/15/2014 at 10:36 PM by CherylAnn
 06/16/2014 05:34 AM
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digimad

Posts: 4577
Joined: 08/30/2007

unless its one of the air threaders, you'll find sergers irrespective of make all require the machine is threaded up from right to left, lower looper first then upper looper right needle left needle. The exception is the combined serger/cover stitch models.

Unfortunately diagrams never clearly show the gap that must exist between the two loopers. Consequently those owners who never had an adequate demonstration of the threading procedure, fall foul to the lower looper thread passing over the top of the upper loopers arm. A certain route to broken threads.

Insist you receive adequate training on the threading of the machine, insist the vendor completely removes the threads for the entire thread route including the top tensioner where the thread has to wrap around the Telescopic arm before entering the threading channel, as that's another area that can cause problems. It's all very well to be told when you change colour simply tie the ends of the new colour to the old colour and pull through, but it doesn't help at all if there's been a thread break and there isn't an end to attach to. Get a decent demonstration of the threading technique, and practise yourself on the premises, take a camera with you and make the vendor go through it slowly as you take a picture of each step. It's your money you are spending, if the vendor wants it, they'll take the time to show you properly.

It took me several months of extreme frustration to finally cave in and buy a serging book. The cost of the book was an investment well spent, since then I've had no problems at all with lower looper thread breakages. I hope your new serger serves you as well as my 11 year old Janome 664D has served me.

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digimad
 06/16/2014 09:56 PM
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rcindallas

Posts: 5
Joined: 06/15/2014

thanks very much for the posts. I have several serging books but they appear to disagree. I have a mylock 634d 'easy threader', (not easy ). I think the 'easy' refers to the abiltiy to push something and have a hook pop out.

I have threaded both ways (upper first, lower first) and try to make sure the thread does not cross. sometimes it works, most times it sews OK for about 6 inches then hangs up and breaks the thread. Any idea on the correct order on a mylock 634d? And are there any actual Janome instructions with a diagram that shows what the threading is supposed to look like *between* threading the upper and lower loopers? I think there is some trick to threading one, then moving something out of the way, then continuing with the other that they are not showing.
 06/17/2014 10:53 AM
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digimad

Posts: 4577
Joined: 08/30/2007

If you can hang on until tomorrow, I'll attempt to do a video showing you how to thread up from a naked machine through to the chaining. I've just put my camera battery on charge, if I cant capture it on video I'll take plenty of photos. Then I'll post a link to where they are.

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digimad
 06/18/2014 02:20 PM
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digimad

Posts: 4577
Joined: 08/30/2007

I've made a video, bit long winded, but I hope I've shown exactly what the Easy thread bit is clearly. Heres the link,http://youtu.be/WBv2qqM7QeM I've used a small Cannon camera to record it, mounted on a tripod, and abandoned the first one, all the camera could see was my swollen hands, so i redid it and crossed my fingers that it worked.

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digimad
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